this allows you to monitor the amp draw of the fuel pump. you can unplug the inertia switch and plug your test leads into the proper 10 amp port on the meter. if your digital volt meter has a 10 amp DC or more setting. you are measuring voltage drop thru a switch because of resistance. you can set it to 20 volts scale as a second test. power while cranking and 2 seconds after back to key on. Power with key on, cranking and back to key ON. Let me go thru my NORMAL ford power testing also. on test 2 thru 6 if your test light gets bright. You may also want to print this test out. the computer looks at the cranking RPM to keep the fuel pump relay activated. if it stays in cranking and releases 2 seconds after you stop. you can remove the cover and reinstall it bare. why i ask if you have the old fuel pump relay. you will need to pull the #1 spark plug to find TDC and please don't crank the motor with the tool installed. you will have to ask autozone which cam position sensor part number is for your truck and they will know which color adapter to use. you may have spark but no injector pulse when this happens. there have been instances of the roll pin shearing when the oil pump locked up. you may want to use one of these loan a tools to verify the cam sensor housing/distributor housing is in sync with the crank. it can allow you to vary the gap to check the oil output. from the cap to the spark plug wire ends.
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do you have spark from the coil to the cap. you probably don't have a fuel pump issue. the hose shown above the one with the gauge attached is the proper size for ford schrader valves with the recessed valve core to stop one from using a tire gauge on it.ĭo you still have the old fuel pump relay. $24 relay, and truck fired up right away. What are your guys suggestions? Is there anything else I can check (cheaply, I'm a broke grad student), to try and diagnose the problem? or.am I destined to make my way to the mechanic and start stocking up on ramen for the next couple months?įixed!!!! It turns out my PCM relay was blown and that was it. Voltage at Inertia switch/relays/wires and spark plugs What I haven't been able to check (dont have the tools): I dont have $250 at the moment to loan out the fuel pressure gauge from autozone, but the shrader valve shoots fuel pretty good when you press it down Checked/tripped then untripped Inertia Switch Switched around Fuel Pump Relay to one I know works
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Replaced corroded battery terminal connections This kept getting worse and worse and now it will crank over just fine, but wont start no matter what. Over the past 2 months it would occasionally just not start(crank and sound perfectly normal, but wouldn't start), then, with a jump it would fire up immediately. I'm also getting a SECONDARY AIR INTAKE failture code? I've never heard of this? What could it be?Īny help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.Hey all, I have a 99 Ford Ranger 3.0 flex fuel with 130,000 miles. I can't really find a walkthrough on replacing this part, although it seems like a lot of people need to replace it. The second thing some have said you need an alignment tool, others have said just mark the old part, which is correct? (The alignment tool looks unescessary based on the picture).Īlso it seems like the sychronizer is a long vain like assembly? How is this removed with the wiring harness? Is it possible to wiggle it out with the harness pryed out of the way?įinally, I found MOTORCRAFT PART # DA2089 as "Synchronizer Assy: SEFI (Distriutorless Ignition) #F8DZ12A362AA" is this the actual part I need?
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I've found mixed information, but most things say engine need set #1 at TDC, how do you do this? I've been told it is likely the Cam Sensor Synchronizer. I replaced the sensor and the codes were reset, but the next time I started the car the light came back on with the same code. I found the sensor (buried beneath the cable bundle), I manager to pry up on the cable bundle w/ a screwdriver just enough to unscrew the two 8mm screws holding in the sensor.
HOW TO INSTALL CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONIZER ON 99 FORD RANGER 3.0 CODE
I had a code for a bad Camshaft Position Sensor.